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This page is designed to help you get the most out of your inspection report and understand your home better. The resources below are specific to homes in the Clovis area and reflect what we see every day in the field.
Homes in the Clovis area have characteristics shaped by our climate, soil conditions, and local building practices. Many of these conditions are normal for the region but are still worth understanding as a homeowner. The more you know about what you have, the better equipped you are to maintain it and catch problems early.
Flat Grading and Foundation Drainage
Most lots in Clovis are flat or minimally sloped, which is standard for the area and not enforced differently by the local building department. However, flat grading means that roof runoff and irrigation water tend to drain slowly near the foundation rather than away from it. Over time, repeated soil saturation around the foundation perimeter is one of the leading contributors to foundation movement, settling, and cracking in this region. This is not a reason to panic about a flat lot — the vast majority of homes here have them — but it is a reason to pay attention to drainage, keep irrigation heads directed away from the foundation, and consider gutters if they are not already installed.
Gutters
Gutters are not common in Clovis and are not required by local building practices. Most homes are built without them, and many go decades without issues. That said, gutters are one of the most cost-effective investments a homeowner can make in this area. When combined with flat grading and the absence of a positive slope away from the foundation, unmanaged roof runoff concentrates directly at the foundation perimeter with every rain event. Many of the foundation issues we see in this region could have been reduced or prevented with proper gutters and downspout discharge. If your home does not have gutters, it is worth adding them — particularly if you have any history of foundation movement, moisture near the foundation, or soil that seems to stay wet after rain.
Galvanized and Cast Iron Pipes
Homes built before the late 1970s frequently have galvanized steel water supply pipes and cast iron or galvanized drain pipes. Both materials were standard at the time and can last many decades, but they have a finite service life. Galvanized supply pipes corrode from the inside out over time, which can gradually reduce water pressure, cause discolored or rusty water, and eventually lead to leaks. Cast iron and galvanized drain pipes are prone to internal corrosion, root intrusion at joints, and eventual cracking or collapse. Neither condition requires immediate action if the system is functioning normally, but both are worth monitoring. If you notice reduced water pressure, rusty water, slow drains, gurgling, or recurring backups, have a licensed plumber evaluate the system. A camera inspection of the drain lines is the most reliable way to assess their condition.
Stucco
Stucco is the most common exterior cladding in this area and performs well in our dry climate. However, stucco requires periodic maintenance to remain effective. Cracks — especially at corners, window and door frames, and where different materials meet — should be sealed promptly to prevent moisture from getting behind the surface. In a climate like ours, small cracks often go years without causing problems, but when a significant rain event occurs, unsealed openings can allow water to enter the wall assembly where it has nowhere to go. Keep an eye on caulking and sealant at all transitions, avoid high-pressure washing directly against the stucco surface, and address cracks during routine painting or maintenance cycles. Many older stucco installations in this area also lack modern drainage features such as weep screeds and proper flashing — this is common and not a defect by local standards, but it does mean the system has less margin for error when water does find an opening.
Uninsulated Pipes and Freeze Risk
Clovis winters include freezing temperatures, and exposed pipes — particularly PVC supply lines in unconditioned spaces such as open crawlspaces, garages, or exterior walls — are vulnerable to freezing and bursting. PVC has less cold tolerance than galvanized steel or PEX and should be insulated wherever it runs through unheated spaces. If your home has an open crawlspace, check whether the supply lines running through it are insulated. During hard freezes, allow a slow drip at faucets on exterior walls, know where your main shutoff is located, and keep the home heated to at least 55°F even when vacant. A burst pipe in a vacant home can cause significant damage before it is discovered.
Clay Sewer Laterals
Many homes in Clovis built before the 1980s have clay sewer laterals — the underground pipe that runs from the home to the city main. Clay pipe was the standard material of the era and can last a long time, but it has known vulnerabilities. Clay joints are prone to separation and offset over time as soil shifts, and tree roots readily enter through those joints. Root intrusion and pipe offsets restrict flow and increase the likelihood of backups and blockages. Because these pipes are underground, their condition cannot be evaluated during a standard visual home inspection. A sewer scope inspection — in which a camera is run through the line — is the only reliable way to assess the condition of a clay lateral. We strongly recommend a sewer scope on any home of this age before purchase, and we offer this service if it was not already included with your inspection.
Evaporative vs. Refrigerated Cooling
Older homes in Clovis were frequently built with evaporative coolers rather than refrigerated air conditioning. Evaporative cooling works well in a dry climate but loses effectiveness on humid days and requires seasonal maintenance including pad replacement, belt inspection, and winterization. Many homeowners have converted or are considering converting to refrigerated systems for more consistent comfort. If your home still has an evaporative cooler, understand its maintenance requirements and factor eventual replacement into your long-term planning. If the home has both systems, confirm that the evaporative cooler has been properly winterized if it is not in use, as water left in the system over winter can cause freeze damage and deterioration of the pan and pads.
Foundation issues are among the most common and costly problems homeowners face in the Clovis area. Understanding why they happen, what to watch for, and who to call when you see something concerning can save you significant money and stress over time.
Why Foundations Move in This Region
The soil in eastern New Mexico is largely expansive clay, which means it swells when wet and shrinks when dry. As the soil moves, the foundation moves with it. This cycle of expansion and contraction — driven by rain events, irrigation, drought, and seasonal temperature changes — is the primary cause of foundation movement in this area. It is not unique to older homes or poorly built homes. It is a regional condition that affects properties of all ages and construction types.
Flat lot grading, absent or misdirected gutters, irrigation systems positioned too close to the foundation, and poor drainage all compound the problem by allowing water to concentrate against the foundation perimeter rather than draining away from it. Addressing drainage is not a guarantee against foundation movement, but it is the single most effective preventive measure available to a homeowner in this region.
What Normal Settlement Looks Like
Some degree of settlement is expected in nearly every home in this area. Normal settlement typically produces minor cosmetic cracking — hairline cracks in drywall, small separations between moldings and walls, minor stair-step cracking in brick or block, and nail pops. These conditions are extremely common and in most cases reflect the normal movement of a structure over time rather than an active structural problem.
What Warrants Further Evaluation
Not all cracking is cosmetic. The following conditions are worth taking seriously and warrant evaluation by a licensed structural engineer:
- Cracks wider than approximately one quarter inch
- Cracks that are tapered — wider at one end than the other
- Cracks with lateral displacement — where one side of the crack has shifted higher or lower than the other
- Multiple cracks concentrated around the same door or window opening
- Doors or windows that have recently become difficult to operate without an obvious cause
- Floors that feel noticeably uneven or sloped
- Visible gaps between walls and ceilings or floors
- Cracks at or below grade on the exterior foundation
Any single one of these conditions on its own may or may not indicate a serious problem. A pattern of several of them together — particularly in combination with a history of drainage issues — is a stronger indicator that a structural evaluation is warranted.
Structural Engineer vs. Foundation Contractor
This distinction matters and is worth understanding before you make any calls. A structural engineer is an independent licensed professional whose job is to evaluate and diagnose. They have no financial interest in whether you need repairs or what kind. A foundation contractor, on the other hand, is in the business of selling and performing foundation repairs. Many are honest and competent professionals, but their assessment comes with an inherent financial incentive that an engineer's does not.
If you have a foundation concern, the right first call is a structural engineer — not a foundation contractor. Get the engineer's assessment and repair recommendations first, then use that scope to obtain quotes from contractors. This sequence protects you from unnecessary work and gives you an independent baseline to evaluate contractor proposals against.
Structural engineering evaluations typically cost a few hundred dollars. That is a small investment relative to the cost of foundation repairs, which can range from modest to very significant depending on the extent of the problem.
Drainage Improvements Worth Considering
If your home has flat grading, no gutters, or irrigation positioned close to the foundation, these are worth addressing proactively — especially if you have seen any signs of foundation movement. Common improvements include:
- Installing gutters with downspouts that discharge water well away from the foundation — not directly against it
- Regrading soil near the foundation to create a positive slope away from the structure where feasible
- Redirecting irrigation heads so they water landscaping rather than the foundation perimeter
- Installing shallow swales or French drains in areas where water consistently pools after rain
- Extending downspout discharge with underground piping or splash blocks to move water further from the structure
None of these improvements are expensive relative to what they protect. A qualified grading contractor or drainage specialist can evaluate your specific lot and recommend the most practical approach.
When to Call Us
If you had a home inspection with us and have questions about foundation-related findings in your report, reach out. We are happy to clarify what we observed, explain why we flagged it, and help you understand whether it warrants further evaluation. Our job does not end when we deliver the report.
Older homes were built to the electrical standards of their time, and many of those standards have changed significantly over the decades. This does not mean an older electrical system is dangerous or needs to be replaced — many function reliably for years without issues. It does mean there are updates worth understanding, particularly if you are buying an older home for the first time.
GFCI Protection
GFCI stands for Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter. A GFCI outlet or breaker monitors the flow of electricity through a circuit and shuts off power almost instantly if it detects a ground fault — meaning electricity is taking an unintended path, often through a person. They are the outlets with the small test and reset buttons you typically see in bathrooms, kitchens, and garages.
Modern standards call for GFCI protection in any area where water and electricity may be in proximity — bathrooms, kitchens, garages, exterior outlets, laundry areas, and others. Homes built before the mid-1970s frequently have no GFCI protection at all, and homes built through the 1980s and 1990s may have it in some locations but not others. This is a grandfathered condition — older homes are not required to be updated retroactively by local building practices — but adding GFCI protection where it is missing is one of the most straightforward and inexpensive safety upgrades available. A licensed electrician can add GFCI outlets or breakers to unprotected circuits quickly and at low cost.
AFCI Protection
AFCI stands for Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter. Where a GFCI protects against shock, an AFCI protects against fire. It monitors a circuit for the signature of an arcing fault — the kind of electrical event that can occur inside a wall from a damaged wire, a loose connection, or a nail driven through a cable — and shuts the circuit off before it can ignite surrounding materials.
AFCI protection is required in modern construction in living areas, bedrooms, and most of the home's interior circuits. It is almost never present in older homes and is not required to be added retroactively. However, it provides meaningful fire protection that older wiring systems simply do not have. If you are planning any electrical work on an older home, it is worth discussing AFCI upgrades with your electrician at the same time.
Ungrounded Outlets
Three-prong outlets require a grounding conductor to function as intended. In many older homes, the branch circuit wiring only has two conductors — a hot and a neutral — with no ground wire. When a three-prong outlet is installed on ungrounded wiring, the third prong is present but not actually connected to anything. This means the grounding protection the outlet appears to offer does not exist.
Ungrounded outlets are common in homes built before the 1960s and are not uncommon in homes through the early 1970s. They are a grandfathered condition locally and are not required to be corrected. However, they do mean that sensitive electronics plugged into those outlets lack the protection they would have on a properly grounded circuit. Options for correction include running new grounded wiring, installing GFCI outlets as a recognized alternative, or installing a whole-home grounding upgrade — a licensed electrician can explain the options and costs for your specific situation.
Whole-Home Surge Protection
Individual surge protector power strips protect the devices plugged into them, but they do not protect the rest of the home's electrical system. A whole-home surge protector installs at the main panel and protects all circuits simultaneously from voltage spikes — including those caused by lightning, utility switching events, and large appliances cycling on and off.
Whole-home surge protection is not required and is not commonly installed in older homes. It is, however, an inexpensive upgrade relative to the cost of replacing appliances, HVAC equipment, or electronics damaged by a surge event. Installation typically costs a few hundred dollars including labor and is well worth considering — particularly in our region where summer thunderstorms are common.
Federal Pacific Stab-Lok Panels
Federal Pacific Electric Stab-Lok panels were installed in a large number of homes from the 1950s through the 1980s and are still present in many older properties in this area. These panels have been the subject of significant concern in the inspection and electrical industry due to documented failures of their breakers to trip under overload conditions — meaning the circuit protection they are supposed to provide may not function as intended.
Federal Pacific panels are not banned and are not required to be replaced by local authorities. However, most home inspectors, electricians, and insurance professionals recommend replacement when they are encountered. Many insurance carriers are reluctant to write policies on homes with these panels or charge higher premiums. If your home has a Federal Pacific Stab-Lok panel, consult a licensed electrician about replacement options and check with your insurance carrier about their position on coverage.
Aluminum Branch Circuit Wiring
During a period roughly from the mid-1960s through the mid-1970s, aluminum was used for branch circuit wiring in some residential construction as a lower-cost alternative to copper. Aluminum wiring expands and contracts more than copper with temperature changes, which can cause connections to loosen over time at outlets, switches, and fixtures. Loose connections are a fire risk.
Aluminum branch circuit wiring is not common in this area but does appear occasionally in homes of that era. If your inspection report noted aluminum branch circuit wiring, consult a licensed electrician about the options for correction. Solutions range from installing approved aluminum-to-copper connectors at all termination points to full rewiring depending on the extent and condition of the wiring.
A Note on Electrical Work
All electrical work should be performed by a licensed electrician. Electrical permits are required for most significant work and exist to ensure the work is inspected and done safely. When hiring an electrician, ask whether they will pull the required permits — a contractor who suggests skipping permits is a red flag. Keep records of all permitted electrical work as it has value at resale and may be required by your insurance carrier.
Your water heater is one of the hardest working appliances in your home and one of the most overlooked until it fails. Understanding what you have, how old it is, and what to watch for can help you plan ahead and avoid an unexpected cold shower — or worse, water damage from a failed tank.
How to Find Your Water Heater's Age
The age of a water heater is encoded in the serial number on the manufacturer's label. Every major brand uses a slightly different format, but in most cases the first four characters of the serial number contain the manufacture date in some combination of year and week or month. If you are not sure how to read your specific brand, a quick search for the manufacturer name and "serial number date code" will walk you through it.
Water heaters typically last 10 to 15 years depending on water quality, usage, and maintenance. Once a unit reaches that range it is not guaranteed to fail immediately, but the likelihood of problems increases and planning for replacement is reasonable. A water heater that fails unexpectedly — particularly one located in a finished area or on an upper floor — can cause significant water damage before it is discovered.
The TPR Valve
The Temperature Pressure Relief valve — commonly called the TPR valve — is one of the most important safety components on your water heater. It is designed to open automatically and release pressure if the water inside the tank becomes dangerously overheated or over-pressurized. Without a functioning TPR valve, a severely overheated water heater can fail catastrophically.
The TPR valve should have a discharge pipe attached to it that runs downward to within a few inches of the floor or to an approved drain location. This pipe directs any discharge safely away from occupants. A missing discharge pipe means that if the valve opens, it will spray scalding water or steam outward at whatever — or whoever — is nearby. If your water heater lacks a discharge pipe, this is a safety item that should be corrected promptly by a licensed plumber.
TPR valves are not tested during a standard home inspection as operating them can cause them to leak afterward if they are old or have never been opened. If your water heater is approaching the end of its service life, replacing the TPR valve at the same time as the tank is a reasonable precaution.
Drain Pans
A drain pan is a shallow pan installed beneath the water heater designed to catch leakage, condensation, or discharge from a failing tank. Ideally the pan has a drain line routed to a floor drain or exterior location so that any collected water is directed away from the surrounding area rather than sitting until it causes damage.
Drain pans are not required by the local building department in this area and are frequently absent — even in newer installations. Their absence is not a defect by local standards, but a leaking water heater without a pan can cause damage to flooring, cabinetry, drywall, and structural materials before the leak is even noticed. If adding a pan is not practical due to the location or installation, a battery-powered water leak detector placed near the base of the unit is an inexpensive alternative that will alert you early if moisture appears.
The Anode Rod
The anode rod is a sacrificial metal rod — typically magnesium or aluminum — suspended inside the tank whose job is to corrode so the tank itself does not. As long as the anode rod is intact it draws corrosive elements in the water toward itself and away from the tank lining. Once it is consumed, the tank begins to corrode from the inside.
Anode rods are not inspected during a standard home inspection as they require draining and disassembly of the tank to access. However, they are worth knowing about. On a water heater with a good maintenance history, anode rod replacement every three to five years significantly extends the life of the tank. On a water heater of unknown maintenance history, a plumber can check the rod condition and replace it if needed. This is inexpensive preventive maintenance that most homeowners never think about.
Signs Your Water Heater May Be Failing
Watch for the following and consult a licensed plumber if you notice any of them:
- Rusty or discolored hot water at faucets
- Water that smells like sulfur or rotten eggs when running hot
- Rumbling, popping, or banging sounds from the tank — often a sign of sediment buildup
- Visible corrosion, rust staining, or moisture around the base of the tank
- Water pooling beneath or around the unit
- Inconsistent hot water — taking longer than usual to heat or running out faster than it used to
- The unit is at or beyond 10 to 15 years of age
Sediment Flushing
Sediment — primarily mineral deposits from the water supply — accumulates at the bottom of the tank over time. Heavy sediment buildup reduces efficiency, increases energy costs, causes noise during heating cycles, and accelerates corrosion of the tank lining. Flushing the tank annually by attaching a hose to the drain valve and allowing water to run until it clears is a simple maintenance task that extends the life of the unit. On an older tank that has never been flushed, consult a plumber before attempting this as disturbing heavily corroded sediment can occasionally cause the drain valve to leak afterward.
Water Heater Temperature
The recommended water heater temperature for most households is 120°F. This is hot enough for normal use while minimizing scald risk, particularly in homes with young children or elderly occupants. Temperatures above 140°F significantly increase the risk of scalding — burns can occur within seconds at that temperature. Temperatures below 120°F can create conditions favorable to bacterial growth inside the tank. If you are unsure what your water heater is set to, the thermostat dial is typically accessible behind a panel on the front of the unit. If you are not comfortable adjusting it yourself, a plumber can set it during routine service.
Electric vs. Gas Water Heaters
Electric water heaters heat water using resistance elements inside the tank and are the most common type in this area. They are generally reliable and low maintenance but cost more to operate than gas units in most markets. Gas water heaters heat water faster and are less expensive to operate but require a functioning gas supply, proper venting, and a working pilot or ignition system. If your home has gas plumbing but the gas meter has been removed or service discontinued, do not assume the gas system is ready to use — have it evaluated and pressure tested by a licensed plumber or the gas utility before connecting any appliances.
Tankless Water Heaters
Tankless — or on-demand — water heaters heat water as it is needed rather than maintaining a stored tank of hot water. They have a longer service life than traditional tank units, typically 20 years or more, and are more energy efficient for households that do not use large volumes of hot water simultaneously. They are becoming more common in new construction and renovation projects in this area. If you are considering replacing an aging tank unit, a tankless system is worth discussing with a licensed plumber as an alternative.
Your inspection report is a starting point, not a finish line. Once you have identified the items you want addressed — whether through negotiation with the seller or repairs you plan to make after closing — the next step is finding qualified people to do the work. Here is what you need to know to navigate that process as a first-time buyer.
What "Qualified Professional" Means
Throughout your inspection report you will see recommendations to consult a qualified professional or qualified contractor. This means a licensed or certified individual or company in the relevant trade — a licensed plumber for plumbing work, a licensed electrician for electrical work, a licensed roofer for roofing, and so on. In New Mexico, most trades require licensure through the Construction Industries Division. You can verify a contractor's license status at the CID website before hiring.
General handymen can handle minor repairs competently, but significant work — anything involving structural components, electrical panels, plumbing supply or drain systems, roofing, or HVAC — should be performed by a licensed trade professional. The license exists to ensure minimum competency and provides you recourse if the work is done improperly.
Get More Than One Quote
For any significant repair, get at least two or three quotes before committing. Prices and recommended approaches can vary considerably between contractors, and the most expensive quote is not always the best one nor is the cheapest always a red flag. What you are looking for is a contractor who clearly understands the scope of the problem, communicates their approach plainly, and provides a written estimate that describes the work in enough detail to be meaningful.
A quote that simply says "repair roof" or "fix plumbing issue" is not a useful document. A quote that describes the specific materials, method, and scope of work is. The difference matters both for evaluating the proposal and for holding the contractor accountable if the work falls short.
Written Scopes of Work Matter
This is especially important when repairs are being negotiated as part of a real estate transaction. A seller who agrees to have something repaired by a licensed contractor before closing should provide a written scope of work and a copy of the paid invoice at or before closing. A vague verbal commitment or a handwritten note that says "will fix" is not protection.
Before closing on a home where seller repairs were agreed upon, you should have in hand a written description of what was done, who did it, proof of licensure if applicable, and proof of payment. For significant items — roof repairs, electrical corrections, plumbing work — ask whether permits were pulled and inspected. Permitted work has been reviewed by a third party and carries more weight than unpermitted repairs.
Permits and Why They Matter
Permits exist to ensure that significant work is inspected by the local building authority and meets minimum safety standards. When a contractor pulls a permit, an inspector from the building department reviews the work at key stages before it is covered up or considered complete. This provides independent verification that the work was done correctly.
Unpermitted work is a liability. It may not have been done to code, it may not be insurable, and it can create complications at resale. When a future buyer's inspector finds evidence of unpermitted work — an added circuit, a replaced water heater, a structural modification — it raises questions about what else was done without oversight.
Ask any contractor you hire whether a permit is required for the work. A contractor who suggests skipping a permit to save time or money is a contractor worth walking away from.
Red Flags When Hiring
Not every contractor who shows up with a business card is someone you want working on your home. Watch for these warning signs:
- Unable or unwilling to provide proof of license and insurance
- Requests full payment upfront before any work is performed
- Offers a significantly lower price than other quotes without a clear explanation
- Suggests skipping permits or inspections
- Pressures you to decide immediately or warns the price will increase if you wait
- Cannot provide references from recent local work
- Communicates vaguely about what they will actually do
A legitimate contractor will have no problem providing license information, proof of insurance, a written estimate, and references. If any of those requests are met with resistance or deflection, move on.
Specialist vs. General Contractor
A general contractor can manage a broad scope of work and coordinate multiple trades, but they are not always the right first call for every problem. Some conditions identified in a home inspection require a specialist — someone whose entire practice is focused on that specific system or problem. Examples include:
- Structural concerns — licensed structural engineer, not a foundation contractor
- Chimney and fireplace issues — certified chimney sweep or chimney specialist
- Sewer line problems — plumber with camera inspection capability
- Mold — certified mold inspector and remediation contractor, not a general handyman
- Electrical panel issues — licensed electrician, not a general contractor
- Roofing — licensed roofing contractor, not a general handyman
For anything involving safety, structural integrity, or systems that require licensure to work on legally, use the appropriate specialist. A general contractor who claims to do everything is worth scrutinizing carefully.
Keep Your Records
Once repairs are made, keep copies of everything — written estimates, contracts, invoices, permit records, and warranties. Store them somewhere you can find them. These documents have real value:
- They demonstrate to a future buyer that known issues were properly addressed
- They may be required by your insurance carrier
- They support warranty claims if work fails prematurely
- They provide documentation if a dispute arises with the contractor
A simple folder — physical or digital — organized by trade and date is all you need. Most homeowners never bother and regret it when they need something they cannot find.
A Note on Repair Requests
If you are using your inspection report to negotiate repairs with a seller, a few practical points worth keeping in mind:
- Focus repair requests on safety items, significant defects, and major systems. Asking a seller to fix every minor item in the report is a common mistake that can derail negotiations and signal inexperience.
- Request repairs by qualified licensed contractors with documentation, not seller credits where possible — a credit sounds good until you discover the repair costs more than the credit.
- Understand that a seller completing repairs before closing does not give you the opportunity to re-inspect the work unless a re-inspection is specifically agreed upon. Ask for one on significant items.
- Your real estate agent is your best resource for navigating repair request strategy — use them.
A home inspection is a generalist evaluation. The inspector assesses a wide range of systems and components in a limited amount of time using visual, non-invasive methods. That scope is valuable for identifying concerns and prioritizing attention, but it has limits. Some conditions require a specialist — someone whose entire practice is focused on a specific system — to fully evaluate and diagnose. Knowing when to make that call can save you from underestimating a problem or spending money on repairs before you fully understand what you are dealing with.
Structural Engineer
A structural engineer should be your first call any time there is a question about the structural integrity of the home — not a foundation contractor, not a general contractor, and not a handyman. Structural engineers are licensed professionals who evaluate and diagnose. They have no financial interest in whether you need repairs or what kind. Their job is to tell you what is actually happening and what, if anything, needs to be done about it.
Call a structural engineer when you see:
- Cracks that are wide, tapered, or show lateral displacement
- Floors that are noticeably sloped or uneven
- Doors or windows that have recently become difficult to operate
- Evidence of foundation movement or settling beyond normal cosmetic cracking
- Modified or damaged structural framing — cut joists, altered trusses, removed walls of unknown load-bearing status
- Any condition your home inspector flagged as potentially structural in nature
Get the engineer's assessment and written recommendations before you call a foundation contractor. Use the engineer's scope to evaluate contractor proposals. This sequence protects you from unnecessary work and gives you an independent baseline that no contractor can argue with.
Chimney Specialist
A standard home inspection evaluates the visible exterior of the chimney and the accessible firebox interior. It does not evaluate the flue liner, the smoke chamber, the damper assembly, or the structural condition of the chimney beyond what can be seen from outside and from the firebox opening. These are the components most likely to have conditions that affect safe operation.
An NFPA Level 2 chimney inspection — performed by a certified chimney sweep using a camera system — is the appropriate evaluation any time a home with a fireplace changes ownership. It is the only reliable way to assess the condition of the flue liner, which is the most critical safety component of a wood-burning fireplace system. A cracked or deteriorated liner can allow combustion gases including carbon monoxide to enter the living space and can create a fire hazard within the wall assembly.
If your inspection report noted chimney concerns or recommended a Level 2 inspection, schedule it before the end of your contingency period so you understand what you have before closing.
Licensed Plumber — Sewer and Drain Specialist
A standard home inspection does not include evaluation of underground sewer lines. The sewer lateral — the pipe that runs from your home to the city main — is one of the most expensive single components to repair or replace and one of the least visible. It cannot be assessed without a camera inspection.
A sewer scope inspection runs a camera through the accessible cleanout to evaluate the condition of the line — looking for root intrusion, pipe offsets, cracks, bellies, and deterioration. On any home with clay sewer laterals, cast iron drain pipes, or mature trees near the sewer line, a sewer scope is not optional in our opinion — it is essential due diligence before purchase.
If a sewer scope was not included with your inspection and the home is of an age where clay laterals are likely, contact us to schedule one or hire a qualified plumber with camera inspection capability before your contingency period expires.
Licensed Electrician
Electrical work in New Mexico requires licensure, and there is a meaningful difference between a licensed electrician and someone who is comfortable working with wiring. For anything involving the service panel, subpanels, branch circuit wiring, GFCI or AFCI upgrades, grounding and bonding corrections, or any condition flagged in your inspection report as an electrical concern — use a licensed electrician.
Specific situations that warrant a licensed electrician rather than a general contractor or handyman:
- Federal Pacific Stab-Lok panel evaluation or replacement
- Any panel with noted deficiencies — double-lugged breakers, improper bonding, neutrals and grounds not isolated in subpanels
- Ungrounded wiring or open ground conditions
- Any wiring that appears modified, improvised, or of unknown origin
- Adding circuits, upgrading service amperage, or installing EV charging equipment
Ask the electrician whether permits are required for the work and confirm they will pull them. Permitted electrical work is inspected by the building department and provides documentation that the work was done to code.
Certified Mold Inspector and Remediation Contractor
If your inspection noted visible staining consistent with mold, elevated moisture readings, or conditions conducive to fungal growth — or if you have concerns about indoor air quality — the appropriate next step is a certified mold inspector, not a general contractor. Mold testing involves air sampling and surface sampling analyzed by a laboratory. The results tell you what is present, where it is concentrated, and at what levels.
A general contractor who offers to remediate mold without proper testing first is not following accepted practice. Effective remediation requires knowing what you are dealing with, where it is, and whether the moisture source driving it has been corrected. Remediation without addressing the moisture source will result in recurrence.
Quasar Home Inspections is a certified IAC2 mold inspection company and offers both indoor air quality testing and surface sampling as separate services. If you have concerns, contact us before scheduling any remediation work.
Roofing Contractor
Roof conditions identified during a home inspection should be evaluated and addressed by a licensed roofing contractor — not a general handyman and not the seller's preferred repair person unless you have independently verified their qualifications. Roofing work done improperly can void manufacturer warranties, create new leak pathways, and leave underlying damage unaddressed.
When a roofing contractor evaluates a concern from your inspection report, ask them to document what they find, what they recommend, and what they propose to do. A written scope and a copy of any warranty on the work — both labor and materials — should be standard. If a seller is completing roof repairs before closing, request documentation of the contractor's license, the scope of work performed, and proof of payment before closing.
HVAC Technician
A home inspection evaluates heating and cooling equipment using normal operating controls and visual assessment. It does not include refrigerant pressure testing, heat exchanger evaluation, duct leakage testing, efficiency measurement, or internal component diagnostics. These require specialized equipment and training.
If your inspection noted concerns with the HVAC system — or if the system is aging and you want a clearer picture of its condition before closing — schedule an evaluation with a licensed HVAC technician. They can assess refrigerant charge, heat exchanger integrity, coil condition, duct performance, and overall system reliability in ways a home inspection cannot. An HVAC evaluation before purchasing a home with an older system is inexpensive relative to the cost of replacement and gives you accurate information for negotiation or planning.
Environmental Specialists
Some conditions are beyond the scope of a home inspection and require environmental specialists with laboratory analysis capabilities. These include:
- Lead-based paint — A certified lead inspector using XRF technology can confirm whether lead paint is present and on which surfaces. This is particularly important before any renovation work on a pre-1978 home. Quasar Home Inspections offers certified lead testing services.
- Radon — Radon is a naturally occurring radioactive gas that enters homes through the foundation and is the second leading cause of lung cancer in the United States. It is odorless and invisible and cannot be detected without testing. Radon testing is inexpensive and should be considered on any home with a basement or slab foundation. Quasar Home Inspections offers radon testing services.
- Asbestos — Homes built before the mid-1980s may contain asbestos in insulation, floor tiles, ceiling tiles, roofing materials, joint compound, and other building materials. Asbestos that is intact and undisturbed is generally not an immediate health hazard. Asbestos that is deteriorating or that will be disturbed during renovation requires evaluation and potentially remediation by a certified asbestos contractor before work begins.
When in Doubt, Ask Us
If you are unsure whether a condition in your report warrants a specialist, what kind of specialist to call, or how urgent the evaluation is — reach out. We are happy to help you understand what we found, why it matters, and who the right person is to evaluate it further. Our goal is not just to deliver a report but to make sure you understand what you bought and what to do about it.